It was a very early rise to be away from the lake and bypass the town before 6am and the 1,500 competitors in the Coast to Coast race. For more info on this test of sheer endurance visit https://www.coasttocoast.co.nz/ 

As we travelled to town, already passing miles of cars coming the other way, most with kayaks on the roof, disaster struck.  The road into town was already closed off. The streams of cyclists expecting to get to town to start at 6:30 were frantically taking their bikes off roofs racks, cycle racks, the back of vans, to cycle to the start.  Lorries were stuck.  The road wasn’t due to close till 06:00 and it was only 05:45. Finally a Marshall arrived and was just as miffed the road was closed.  After long discussions on his radio he advised everyone the road couldn’t be reopened and alternate routes had to be taken.  We had already decided when we awoke at 05:00 not to take the alternate road in the pitch dark as there were no lights and it was a gravel track full of pot holes. Now we had no choice but to backtrack.  The other road was also closed when we got there but the marshals let us through.  By the time we got to the gravel part morning was breaking, and there was some light.  Forty five minutes wasted, now we were back where we stayed but at least moving. The trail of traffic must have been at least four miles long and at one point we were in the middle of it. 

Unpredictable and unwanted

The weather forecast, upon checking the day before, had been dry with blue skies.  The journey through the mountains would be amazing.  Unfortunately, someone else had other ideas and the rains came and came and came.  Visibility wasn’t always great on roads that twisted and turned more than Elvis’ hips but we had a plan.  It was only later that we found out the coast to coast route for the runners had to be changed due to The Goat Pass (great name) being flooded.

Dorothy Falls the udder way

The weather brightened for a while and we were brought to a stop by some electric wires in the road and a herd of cattle crossing the road with bursting udders, obviously heading straight for the milking station. We stopped and waited.  It was only when a local pulled up next to us and told us we could cross andjust to be cautious. With some of these herds 500 cattle plus we were glad of his advice and made the trip to the falls. This made me think, I wonder who in their right mind back in biblical days, or even long before, thought ‘Ah, why don’t I just milk a cow or a goat’ and what did their elders think?

Hidden on the other side of a bridge were the beautiful Dorothy Falls. If it hasn’t been signposted we’d have missed it.  There is only parking for a handful of vehicles and we were first. Straight in for a dip.  Not the 19⁰ of the lake, nearer 4⁰ at a push.  Pure refreshing ice cold water,  very good for the mind, body and soul as long as your heart survives the initial plunge. We were soon joined by two German men, one of which looked like he was doing poses for his 2027 calender. Maybe this waterfall was for the March page as he modelled in his budgie smugglers on the rocks next to the fall itself.  They did eventually swim, but like us didn’t stay in too long for fear of hypothermia.

Gorgeous but blue

After our explosion of senses in Dorothy it was time to move to something bluer. Within the hour we arrived at Hokitika Gorge, the brochure offered a visual feast. This could be something new, something blue.  Whatever it was going to be it would be something wild and something wet as the heavens had reopened the flood gates and to add to the atmosphere they’d thrown in the howling winds to echo through the mountains.

There weren’t many people around today, a couple of Dutch and a few Germans.  We’d imagine some were from Berlin at Hokitika Gorge ‘you take my breath away’.  Even in these harsh conditions it was hard not to truly admire the  vibrant turquoise of the carribeanesque water against the dull rustic  browns and greys of the rocks, and surrounded by the gorgeous greens of the tropical rainforest.  To add to this awesome trek we crossed two splendid suspension bridges across these waterways.  Admittedly we nearly got blown over by the rushing winds into the gushing waters below.

Hercules had gone round the bend

Most of the roads we drive, especially around the mountains, are full of twists and turns with the occasional straight to let you regain your balance and composure.  Not this mountain. With a name like this, Mt Hercules had to be different.  Still in downpours and windy conditions Hercules had more Zig Zags to contend with than the whole of the Swiss Olympic skiing team. Worth it though, because when the skies did clear there were some incredible views.  Somehow,  even in a storm it is stunningly sensational.

The sharp bends are to be approached at 15kph (9.8mph) the rest at 25-35kph (15.2-22mph). These went on for miles and the map picture really doesn’t do it justice. 

The search for blue ice

In our next town, and where we will stay, freedom parking is not permitted with reviews saying they can be strict on this. It’s not worth the $200 fine so we find a cheap ‘registered site’ that does have cooking facilities, showers,  laundry (at a cost) and free WiFi.  All these sites work on a first come first served basis.  Just two slots left so we park up and register the van.  Assured that no one else will take our spot we set off on another quest.

The Franz Joseph Glacier Trail, where you can see the glacier coming through the mountains.  Though these days it’s receding back through the valley and speeding up it’s retreat each year.

Missing in the mist

Well after walking up the track to the viewpoint the signs read that the glacier was two kilometres away. 

The issue was that we could only see for half a kilometres at best due to the low clouds and persistent rain.

Reality check

Even though some of the posters are from around the 1920s – 1940s even the glacier practically reached the town, our view looked somewhat different. Now as it has receeded, there is a two kilometre drive to a pay car park. Then a hike up to the viewpoints.

New Bonds – shaken not stirred

Despite the harsh weather conditions we made a new friend, Mark Martini the park ranger.  He is responsible for making sure that people adhere to the glacier code of conduct and is not to be messed with. 

Okay, so he’s a life-size cutout but he warns us whenever there is danger, what a ranger.

Defying the odds

When the area was becoming a tourist spot back at the start of the 20th century, one man had the vision to put a hut at the end of the glacier on a ridge so people could have shelter on their expeditions. He also took guided tours to see the glacier.  As the area became unstable they moved the hut back to where it sits today in the car park.

Chores and snores

We got excited about seeing the kitchen in Defiance Hut, knowing we had one back at our ‘parking bay’. As we weren’t going to see anything tonight we headed back cooked dinner, ate, did the laundry in the shower and dried it using the tumble drier ($8 – rip off). Then it was off to catch up on some well needed sleep.

Goodnight