Really looking forward to going and seeing Humpbacks or other whales. Arrived at 07:15 in anticipation for a few hours on the open seas only to be informed that all tours had been cancelled for the day due to strong winds and rough waters.  Ce la vie, we’ll find something else to do.  Another warning sign spotted.  This one not about earthquakes, but about the evacuation processes in a tsunami.

Bigger than Big Ben

Of course, if the boats can’t go out because of the weather there is always a mountain to climb. Mt Fyffe is a staggering 1606m whereas Ben Nevis, Great Britain’s tallest mountain, stands tall at 1345m (856ft smaller than Mt Fyffe). The brochure promises 360⁰ panoramic views. First, just got to cross the river which is often flooded.

There were three main points on the hike up,  Fyffe Lookout, Fyffe Hut and Fyffe Summit. Why not.  Two hours hike to the lookout, three hours to the hut and seven to the Summit.  Alternatively there was an easier path to take that took 2-3 days to reach the Summit.  As we didn’t have 2-3 days, it was the quick hard path we’d have to follow. Signs to do stargazing at the top as well.  We’ll see.

The signs, and the Internet, warned of a very steep climb following the old 4×4 road.  They definitely know their steep, 2km up at 45⁰ – 60⁰ trajectory just to the lookout.  So off we troddle up the side of the mountain.  Two kilometres later and we reached the lookout.  We started at 180m above sea level.  By the time we got to the lookout we were 1,100m, a climb of 920m (3,018 ft), which is 542ft less than Mt Snowdon in Wales and at a much more acute angle. However, the terrain, although steep, was far more manageable and easier on the feet than Snowdon as it was heavily compacted. Approaching the lookout the mist rolled in, then came the rain. 

Fairly exhausted and not wanting to test our might against Mother Nature, we started the descent after our picnic. With the area susceptible to flooding and the rains coming down harder now,  we made our way back down the track at the fastest, but safest, speed we could manage. All our hikes and trekking over the past five weeks definitely helped us manage this fete. Sore calfs and knees at the bottom,  but we’ll live to fight another mountain.

Deal it and seal it

Driving back to town we stopped for fuel and to use the local amenities. So far the day had been exciting, even if the elements had been against us. Checking out maps and planning destinations we took the northerly coast road.  Finally, at our first destination we were having some well earned luck.

Below us,  from our viewing point we could see all the mother fur seals basking in the sun, or feeding their young pups.  While other young pups were literally being young pups.  ‘Play fighting’,  pestering their mothers, getting lost and generally larking about.  Although we didn’t get the whales, the cute little fur seals put on quite a show.  This was the ideal location for them to learn and hone their survival skills as they had a barrier to the ocean through the rock formations just letting in enough water to create a series of mini splash pools. The young pups were having a blast, oblivious to the fact that the other side of their well protected playground is patrolled by the two main apex predators of the ocean.  One being a fish, The Great White Shark and the other a mammal, the largest member of the dolphin family the orca (killer whale).  While there should only be one Apex predator, and most people would argue it’s the orca due to recent discoveries of orcas occasionally attacking great white sharks, there have only ever been a few encounters recorded.  So we’ll say the shark is the apex fish and the orca is the apex sea mammal. Either way,  these cute adorable seals are going to have to outsmart and outrun both in order to have a long fruitful life

Staying local

We had planned to drive for a good few hours, but decided we’d stay fairly local and picked a free campsite a couple of hours away. We passed many of New Zealand’s best vineyards on the way. Once at the site we went for a stroll along the beach which was eerily scattered for miles with old driftwood. We returned to the van to settle down and deal some cards to an overcast sky and a seal in the river.